Как качественно сделать вентиляцию в погребе: устройство, схемы, установка

Вентиляция необходима везде. Доступ чистого воздуха – залог свежести, здоровья и отсутствия сырости. Особенно важно последнее для подвальных помещений. В погребе люди длительно хранят овощи и фрукты, а также консервацию. Если условия непригодны, продукты могут быстро портиться. Как сделать вентиляцию в погребе? Нужен ли специалист, или процесс выполним собственными силами?

Условия для создания погреба

Часто обустройство погреба начинается на этапе проектирования дома. Подвал – полезная площадь, где можно хранить нескоропортящиеся продукты питания. Многие семьи делают заготовки на зиму и организуют погреб так, чтобы не пришлось выходить на улицу, чтобы достать необходимые продукты.

Чтобы овощи не портились, в погребе необходимо создать соответствующие условия. Это позволит обеспечить сохранность продуктов. Важны такие факторы:

• количество света;
• температура;
• доступ воздуха;
• влажность.

Чтобы продукты хранились долго, в подвальном помещении не должно быть доступа света. Не должно быть окон или других естественных источников света. Электрическое освещение должно включаться только по необходимости на время пребывания там человека.

В подвале должно быть прохладно. В то же время в зимние морозы помещение не должно промерзать. Температура должна быть примерно постоянной. Желательно, чтобы одна из стен подвала была смежной со стенами дома.

Избежать быстрой порчи продуктов питания позволит постоянный доступ чистого воздуха извне. Поэтому устройство вентиляции в погребе – важная часть заботы о своем урожае.

Уровень влажности также следует контролировать. Грамотно установленная вентиляционная система позволит контролировать этот показатель. В норме влажность должна находиться в пределах 90%.

Если в погребе нет полноценной вентиляции, продукты не будут храниться долго. Кроме того, сырость, скапливающаяся на стенках помещения, будет способствовать распространению плесени и грибка. Такое помещение не может быть пригодным для хранения пищевых продуктов.

Как работает вентиляция в погребе

Правильная вентиляция погреба, как и других помещений, основана на неизменных законах физики. Схема воздухообмена проста, и выполнить ее можно самостоятельно без помощи специалистов.

Для качественной циркуляции воздуха в погребе требуется два вентиляционных отверстия. Одно из них – приточное, то есть через него чистый воздух проникает вовнутрь. Второе – вытяжное. Через него все отработанные газы и испарения выводятся наружу. Чтобы вытяжная система работала полноценно, к отверстиям должны быть подведены каналы. Чаще применяются трубы. Важно, чтобы их диаметр соответствовал нормам.

Система вентиляции в погребе будет работать качественно лишь при условии правильного расположения уровня вытяжных отверстий. В зависимости от расположения самого погреба, вытяжные трубы могут монтироваться по-разному. Иногда их выводят через потолок дома, а могут быть встроены в стену подвала. Эти моменты важно учитывать, когда составляется схема вентиляции погреба.

От того, на какой высоте будут расположены отверстия для поступления чистого воздуха, будет зависеть температура в подвале, особенно в зимнее время года. Должна быть оптимальной как высота их размещения, так и диаметр отверстий.

Что учесть перед выполнением вентиляции

Думая, как правильно сделать вытяжку в погребе, следует учесть некоторые моменты:

• учесть вентиляцию для погреба на момент постройки;
• выбрать правильный диаметр;
• правильно расположить вентиляционные трубы.

Определяясь, как в погребе сделать вентиляцию, важно продумать схему и отразить в ней основные моменты.

Создание вытяжки при постройке

Сама правильная вытяжка в погребе может быть создана лишь тогда, когда закладывается одновременно со строительством дома. Тогда можно учесть потребности семьи и будущее использование подвального помещения.

Когда кладутся стены погреба, за кладкой оставляется специальный проем, куда можно будет вставить вентиляционную трубу. Иногда труба устанавливается уже на этом этапе. В кладке делается небольшое отверстие, куда подводится эта труба для вытяжки воздуха.

Правильный подбор диаметра вентиляции

Вентиляционные трубы не должны быть слишком маленькими в диаметре, так как в таком случае приток и отток кислорода не будет полноценным, и затхлый воздух будет скапливаться внутри помещения.

Важное условие для качественной вентиляции – равномерность диаметров для приточной и вытяжной трубы. В редких случаях вытяжная может быть немного больше. Тогда воздухообмен будет происходить быстрее. Однако приточная никогда не должна быть шире вытяжной, иначе циркуляция воздуха будет нарушена.

Плохой доступ кислорода в подвал и отток испарений может быть опасным для человека. Опустившись в погреб, можно ощутить резкую нехватку воздуха. У некоторых это даже приводит к обморокам.

Как расположить вентиляционные трубы

Вентиляция в погребе под домом будет полноценной, если обе трубы для циркуляции воздуха расположены правильно относительно друг друга. Они не должны быть размещены рядом. Идеально, если возможно, установить их в противоположных стенах. В крайнем случае, это можно сделать по одной стене, но в разных углах.

Такое размещение позволит полноценно обновлять климат в подвале. Когда чистый воздух попадает в помещение, он, перед тем, как выйти наружу, пройдет большее расстояние. Так в подвале будет свежее.

Важен и уровень расположения приточной и вытяжной трубы. Свежий воздух всегда прохладнее. Поэтому приточный канал следует размещать внизу, недалеко от пола. Вытяжное отверстие идеально разместить прямо под потолком. Пройдя через подвальное помещение, кислород нагревается и поднимается вверх. Благодаря такому размещению воздухообмен будет проводиться качественно.

Свободный конец вытяжной вентиляционной трубы выводят наружу и поднимают примерно на 1,5 м выше конька. Когда выполняется вентиляция погреба под домом, часто применяются канализационные пластиковые трубы. Их диаметра вполне достаточно, чтобы отлично справиться с вентиляционными функциями.

Важно, чтобы в трубах для притока и оттока воздуха было как можно меньше поворотов. Следует проследить, чтобы по всей длине был один диаметр трубы. Если где-то будет сужение, качество вентиляции резко снизится. Если следовать этим рекомендациям, обмен кислородом будет более свободный.

Внешние концы вентиляционных отверстий всегда следует закрывать решетками. Без них всегда сохраняется вероятность попадания туда мелких грызунов, или мусора. В итоге, эти каналы быстро засоряются, и сырость не выводится из подвального помещения.

Однотрубные вентиляции

Вентиляция в погребе с одной трубой применяется не часто. При таком проекте подразумевается, что приток воздуха будет обеспечиваться через входные двери или люк. Для небольших погребов такой системы достаточно. Но когда там хранится много продуктов, а площадь этой комнаты немаленькая, вытяжка в погребе с одной трубой может неполноценно выводить загрязненный воздух.

Чтобы позаботиться о продуктах, хранящихся в погребе с таким типом вентиляционной системы, требуется немного изменить тип входной двери. Одну ее часть делают утепленной. Вторую оставляют «открытой». По сути, вместо створки там только каркас. На него крепят сетку, защищающую погреб от насекомых и грызунов.

В таком случае продукты смогут остаться в сохранности. В то же время в сильные морозы потребуется контролировать температуру внутри. Иногда вентиляцию открывают несколько раз в день на 30-40 минут, а затем закрывают. Когда вентиляция погреба зимой внимательно контролируется, это предотвращает промерзание продуктов внутри.

Виды вентиляции погреба

Решая, как сделать вытяжку в погребе, следует определиться с ее типом. Вентиляции бывают:

• естественными;
• принудительными.

Следует подробнее рассмотреть преимущества и недостатки каждого вида системы.

Естественные вентиляции

Вентиляция погреба с двумя трубами без применения каких-либо вентиляторов или электрических систем считается естественной. Доступ свежего воздуха обеспечивается за счет разницы атмосферного давления на улице и в помещении.

Чтобы такая вентиляция была эффективной, важно правильно расположить обе трубы. Немаловажна и погода на улице. В теплое и безветренное время системы не идеально справляются со своими функциями. В такие периоды невозможно четко регулировать температурный режим в подвальном помещении.

К преимуществам можно отнести такие нюансы:

• низкая себестоимость, так как затраты только на недорогостоящие материалы;
• простой монтаж, нет необходимости приглашать специалистов;
• возможность установить вентиляцию даже после постройки основного здания.

Немаловажно учесть, для каких целей проектируется подвал. Если там будут храниться только овощи, не требующие специальных условий, естественной вентиляции может быть вполне достаточно. Если там предполагается хранить продукты, требующие строго температурного режима и уровня влажности, лучше подойдет принудительная вентиляция погреба.

Принудительная вентиляция

Вентиляция погреба своими руками – цель осуществимая, даже в том случае, когда планируется установка принудительной системы. Для этого достаточно иметь базовые знания физики и электрики.

Вытяжка для погреба принудительного типа применяется чаще всего тогда, когда площадь подвального помещения более 40 квадратов. Этот способ вентилирования актуален и тогда, когда комнату планируется использовать не только для хранения продуктов, но, например, как бильярдную или спортзал.

Преимущества принудительной вентиляционной системы таковы:

• оптимальная температура в погребе легко достигается в любое время года, независимо от погоды;
• с помощью специального оборудования можно достичь не только замены воздуха свежим, но и его фильтрации;
• можно регулировать степень вентиляции в зависимости от изменяющихся потребностей.

Принудительная вытяжка для погреба своими руками монтируется не так просто, как естественная. Кроме того, требуется приобрести специальное оборудование, поэтому себестоимость системы заметно повышается. Чтобы такая вентиляция работала, необходима точка электропитания, а, значит, придется проводить отдельную проводку и ставить розетку. Когда электричество отключают, вентиляция перестает функционировать. Расчет вентиляции погреба необходим, чтобы не ошибиться в выборе мощности приборов, обеспечивающих отток воздуха.

Зная, как правильно сделать вентиляцию в погребе, можно обойтись без помощи специалистов в этой сфере. Грамотно созданная система позволит долго хранить продукты в подвале, а нахождение человека в таком помещении будет безопасным.

90000 Root Cellars 101- Root Cellar Design, Use and Mistakes to Avoid 90001 90002 Sharing is caring! 90003 90004 90004 90002 In this article we’ll talk about 5 basic things you must include in a root cellar design, plus 10 tips for fruit and vegetable storage. There’s also a printable storage guide for over 30 fruits and veggies, and links to additional information at the bottom of the post. 90003 90002 A root cellar is a great low-cost way to store food — not just root vegetables, but other fresh produce, too.They require little to no energy to use and very little maintenance. 90003 90002 You can build in a root cellar when your home is under construction, but it’s also possible to add a root cellar to your basement, or build one outside your home. 90003 90012 90012 90014 What is a root cellar? 90015 90002 Wiki says a root cellar is «90017 a structure, usually underground or partially underground, used for storage of vegetables, fruits, nuts, or other foods. 90018 «90003 90002 Dig a deep enough hole, and you’ll find that the ground is cool (and often moist).Root cellars tap into those cool, moist soil conditions and use them to store fruits and vegetables — like your refrigerator produce bin. 90003 90014 Building a Root Cellar 90015 90002 There are five major elements that a root cellar requires: 90003 90026 90027 90028 Ventilation: 90029 Some fruits and vegetables give off ethylene gas, which can cause other produce to spoil. Also, a tightly sealed cellar will increase the risk of mold. Make sure fresh air can get in, stale air can get out, and air can circulate around the produce.90030 90027 90028 Earth-shelter: 90029 The soil insulates and maintains a cooler temperature. A packed earth floor or gravel floor is better than concrete for keeping moisture (humidity) levels higher. 90030 90027 90028 Humidity: 90029 A high humidity level of 80-95% keeps produce from drying out. Humidity that is high enough for produce may cause canning jar lids to rust, so be sure to check lids and rotate stock if you store canned goods in the root cellar. Too much humidity can be a problem also, so try to keep it below 95% 90030 90027 90028 Darkness: 90029 Light can trigger sprouting, so if you have a window in your root cellar, keep it covered, and do not leave the lights on.90030 90027 90028 Shelving / Storage bins: 90029 Wood shelving and bins are naturally antibacterial. Wood also conducts heat more slowly than metal, and does not rust. Avoid treated wood, and stick to those that are naturally rot resistant. 90030 90047 90014 Types of Root Cellars and Natural Cold Storage Options 90015 90002 Natural cold storage options include (click on any item in the list to jump to more information below): 90003 90002 All of these keep your food cool. These earth sheltered fruit and vegetable options work best for those in cooler climates, where the ground temp is naturally cooler.90003 90014 Warmer Climate Options 90015 90002 You may not be able to store things like we northerners can, but the Above Ground Root Cellar post will give you some ideas of what you can store, plus tips for year round food production so you always have fresh , local food to enjoy. The Coolbot makes it very affordable to use a standard AC unit for refrigerated fruit and vegetable storage. 90003 90002 Check out the related articles 90003 90014 10 Tips for Fruit and Vegetable Storage in a Root Cellar 90015 90002 Key storage tips to remember: 90003 90026 90027 Late-maturing crops store better than early maturing crops.Specific varieties also store better than others. Watch for varieties that are noted for good storage quality. 90030 90027 Check fruit and vegetable condition at storage time. If you note any damage on produce, use those items first. One bad apple or onion can spoil the whole bin, so it’s good to regularly inspect produce during storage, too. 90030 90027 Cure the vegetables that need it before storage. Vegetables that require curing include onions, garlic, winter squash (pumpkins), potatoes and other root crops.90030 90027 Most root vegetables store best in the root cellar if they are wiped off rather than washed. Wipe excess dirt off of carrots, beets, rutabagas and turnips and store them in lightly dampened leaves or straw. Use fresh leaves each year to prevent potential pathogen buildup. Fresh sand and sawdust will also work, but are messier. 90030 90027 If you have a muddy garden at harvest time, it’s okay to wash, but make sure dry up excess moisture (and cure if needed) before storage to avoid rot.Humidity is good, water on the surface of fruits and vegetables is not. 90030 90027 Less-than-ideal conditions shorten storage life. Try to get as close as possible to target temps and moisture levels. Use different areas of your storage for crops that are a best fit, such as storing carrots and beets lower (colder) and tomatoes and winter squash higher (warmer). (See Fruit and Vegetable Storage chart below.) 90030 90027 Store fruits that give off ethylene gas away from produce that can be spoiled easily by ethylene gas.You can also wrap fruit that produces excess ethylene in newspaper to contain the gas. 90030 90027 The odor of strong smelling vegetables, like turnips and cabbage, can be absorbed by fruits and other vegetables. Store them away from other food and where the odor can not waft into the house. 90030 90027 90028 Do not allow fruits and vegetables to freeze. They will get mushy and rot. 90029 90030 90027 Track temperature and humidity to measure your root cellar performance. Do not open the root cellar unless you have to, unless the entry is protected.Letting heat in or very cold dry air in will reduce the storage life of your fruits and vegetables. 90030 90047 90088 Fruit and Vegetable Storage Chart 90089 90002 This chart gives preferred temperature and moisture ranges for root cellar storage of a variety of fruits and vegetables. 90017 Adapted from the 90018 90017 University of Missouri Extension Office 90018 90017. 90018 90028 Click 90029 90028 HERE 90029 90028 or on image below to download Printable PDF version of Root Cellar Storage Requirements.90029 90003 90104 90104 90014 Root Cellar Location — In the Basement or Buried Outside? 90015 90002 By default, the word «cellar» means «underground». A big part of why root cellars work as well as they do is that the earth remains at a relatively constant (cool) temperature. 90003 90002 Underground temperatures vary, depending on your location. Closer to the equator, it may be cooler than air temp, but still is not likely to act well as a root cellar in Canada. At the opposite extreme, you have arctic permafrost, which the native folks use to store whole animals.90003 90088 Retrofitting a Root Cellar in an Existing Home 90089 90002 The easiest option for building a root cellar is to section off a part of the basement for your fruit and vegetable storage. Old dirt floor basements without heat are great for maintaining proper temperature and humidity levels (be sure to insulate between the house and root cellar). 90003 90014 Add a Root Cellar to a New Home 90015 90002 Many new homes have a small concrete exterior porch. Typically this area has 4ft footings and is filled under the porch with dirt.You need to put a foundation wall under it anyway, so why not put this area to good use? 90003 90002 To turn this under porch area into a root cellar, have the builder put in full footings, an insulated exterior grade access door from the basement and two 4 inch vent holes. Add concrete slab on top as normal. This area could also be a wine cellar or safe room. It will cost more but not a lot more. 90003 90002 Add a switched light and rigid insulation on the ceiling of the root cellar. Insulate the walls to the home.Do not insulate the outside walls exposed to soil. If possible get the builder to skip insulating around that area on the exterior of the root cellar concrete. 90003 90002 Our porch root cellar measures about 6’x8 ‘. It provides plenty of room for our stash of root veggies, plus gives a nice sized porch above. Locating the root cellar outside the footprint of the home allows the root cellar to maintain cooler temperatures more easily than a cellar located within the house. 90003 90126 90126 90088 Building a Root Cellar Outside the Home 90089 90002 For an exterior root cellar, similar rules apply — have good ventilation, keep it earth sheltered and dark.A north facing door is preferred, to avoid sun beating in and heating your cellar up. 90003 90002 Try for at least one to two feet of soil covering the root cellar. Consider a pre-made option such as a septic tank or large pre-cast culvert. Otherwise use materials that are rot resistant and can stand the weight of wet soil. We do not recommend shipping containers. 90003 90088 Traditional Root Cellar 90089 90002 This is what most of us think of when we hear the phrase «root cellar». There are insulated doors that lead down into the earth.It’s dug down or into the side of a hill. 90003 90002 Walls are concrete, cinder block, or more creative materials like old tires. You need to make sure the roof and walls are well supported to avoid collapse. Engage an architect or engineer to ensure your safety. 90003 90088 Earth Berm Root Cellar 90089 90002 Above ground root cellars are usually partly sunken with earth mounded on 3 sides and the door avoiding the direct sun. See the Above Ground Root Cellars post for more information. 90003 90002 For a great resource on building a homestead root cellar, check out the book below by my friend, Teri, of Homestead Honey.90003 90002 Select an area with an existing window if possible, and use the window for ventilation. Fill the window with exterior grade plywood, and cut the necessary vent holes through the plywood. The plywood also blocks direct light. 90003 90002 North facing corners work well, because you can leave the two exterior walls uninsulated, and only insulate the interior walls and ceiling. A north facing wall will not gain heat from the sun. Use materials that tolerate moisture exposure. 90003 90002 Insulating between the house and root cellar is necessary so you do not heat the root cellar from above.You also avoid losing house heat into the root cellar. 90003 90002 Your basement root cellar should have no standard heating or cooling. Insulate any ductwork or piping that runs through the ceiling above your root cellar (if any). Make sure vents or hot water pipes are well insulated so they do not bleed heat into your root cellar. 90003 90002 For additional food storage space, build shelving on the inside and outside of your basement root cellar for canned goods or other items. The area outside the root cellar can be used to store dry goods and canned goods if it is cool enough.90003 90088 Barrel in the ground for (Zones 6-9) 90089 90002 The size and depth depends on the zone you live in. A simple bucket, with holes drilled in the bottom and top, buried level with the soil with a bale of hay as an insulating cover will work into zone 7 and possibly into zone 6 depending on cover and conditions. The colder and hotter zones require the bucket or barrel to be deeper, and more insulation on the top to avoid the freezing surface temps. 90003 90002 For more information on zones see: Plant Hardiness Zones & Microclimate — Creating your Best Garden 90003 90088 Barrel in the ground for (Zones 3-6) 90089 90002 Buy one 55gal large heavy duty garbage can, and a 32gal smaller garbage can that fits inside the larger one (with an inch or two gap).Both the larger garbage can and the smaller one need holes in the bottom. 90003 90002 The inside can needs a cover with vents / screen. Cover exterior holes with screens to keep rodents out. It also needs significant insulation above it (over it). Bales of hay, or piles of leaves can insulate it. 90003 90002 Prepare a hole that is deeper than the large garbage can, with rocks and gravel in the bottom to create a simple French drain. If water drains well, you will need a small amount of rocks and gravel.If you have clay or your soil does not drain well, you need to go deeper and wider so your underground storage barrel does not turn into a water hole. 90003 90002 Another trick is to dig a very deep, large hole next to the garbage can hole and fill that hole with rocks. The deeper hole acts as a drain for your shallower garbage can root cellar. 90003 90002 Once you have the large garbage can in the ground and secure, lower the smaller one into the larger barrel. Store food in the small barrel. 90003 90002 When you need access, grab from the top or pull out the smaller barrel.This makes it easier to reach food the bottom. There are many variations on this. 90003 90176 90176.90000 How to Ventilate a Basement | Home Guides 90001 90002 By Rebecca Mecomber Updated December 29, 2018 90003 90002 More than any other room in the house, the basement can become a repository of unpleasant odors, moisture problems, mold growth and other indoor pollutants. Unventilated basements are not only prone to musty odors and mildew, the basement is also commonly used to store household chemicals. Paints, solvents, automobile products and cleaning products slowly release chemicals into the air.In an unventilated space, these chemicals build up and produce a toxic environment. Ventilating the basement exhausts polluted or musty air and draws in fresh air from outdoors. There are two basic methods for basement ventilation: natural and mechanical, both with their advantages and disadvantages. 90003 90006 Why Ventilate 90007 90002 Due to its position below ground, moisture from the earth seeps in through the floor and walls. When this cold moisture collides with the warmer basement air, condensation develops.Excessive condensation creates a musty, sour smell and, if left to collect into pools of liquid water, stagnates or produces a breeding ground for mold and mildew spores. Some molds are toxic and hazardous to the health of the home’s occupants. The Environmental Protection Agency reports that certain types of mold, particularly black mold, can aggravate or cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks and symptoms of influenza. The EPA recommends that homeowners reduce or remove any water leaks or moisture problems, and ventilate the basement.A constant influx of clean, fresh air inhibits mold and mildew growth. 90003 90010 Natural Ventilation Method 90007 90002 Natural ventilation makes use of natural air currents, but this type of ventilation works only for basements with windows that are strategically placed and able to open and close. While the natural method conserves energy, it does require more work. Windows must be opened at regular intervals and closed during times of rainfall or at night to prevent intruders from entering the basement.For best results, windows should be opposite each other across the basement space, following the natural drafts of the basement. A wet basement needs additional ventilation, such as fans or a dehumidifier. If the basement is continuously wet, the natural method is most likely insufficient and a more mechanical system may be required. 90003 90014 Mechanical Ventilation Method 90007 90002 Mechanical ventilation uses fans and vents to exhaust existing basement air and bring in fresh, outdoor air.This type of system may be as simple as placing small window fans in opposite windows or as technical as installing an exhaust fan with ventilation pipe. Many homeowners opt for a mechanical ventilation because of the great flexibility and automation it provides. Mechanical ventilation is a requirement for homes testing positive for radon, an odorless gas that is the leading cause of lung cancer in the United States among non-smokers. The EPA recommends that homeowners with radon in their homes consult with their state radon department for information on installing a radon mitigation system.90003 90018 Basic Installation System 90007 90002 A basic mechanical ventilation system begins with a design plan and depends largely on the size of the basement and other appliances or items in the space. For most small to moderately sized basements, a ventilation fan on one side of the basement and an exhaust fan on the other end is suitable. The fans may be permanently installed within existing window cavities, or may need dedicated openings cut through the portions of the basement walls that are above ground.The best ventilation fans include a humidity sensor for simple automation. Once the sensor detects a certain moisture content, the fans vent the air until the moisture content in the basement is reduced. The EPA suggests that homeowners maintain an environment below 60 percent humidity to inhibit the growth of mold and mildew in their basements. 90003.90000 How to Make a Root Cellar 90001 90002 Underground Root Cellar 90003 90004 Making an underground root cellar was my fall project for the year 2010. 90005 90004 This article shows step-by-step how it was designed and constructed, from the planning stage to the final result, including information on drainage, ventilation, and insulation. 90005 90004 I’ll explain the mistakes I made and how they were corrected (or how I learned to live with them!). 90005 90002 Planning the Root Cellar 90003 90004 I spent many hours researching and planning before I decided what type of root cellar to build and where to put it.And then spent some more time designing it. I relied heavily on information from the book 90013 Root Cellaring 90014 by Mike and Nancy Bubel and also did some research on the Internet. 90005 90004 There are many different types of root cellars and many different methods of building them. Here I’ll just be describing my personal experience in building one with access directly from the basement. 90005 90004 Information about other types and methods, including some simpler and less expensive ones, can be readily found in the Bubels ‘book or on the Internet.I’ve provided some links at the end of this article. 90005 90002 Initial Decisions 90003 90004 My first thought was to use an idea I found on the internet: buy a new septic tank, cut a door into it, and put it in the ground. However, I knew I wanted a dirt floor, so the bottom would also have to be cut out. 90005 90004 I called a local company to discuss this idea. They told me it would cost me less to have them build a precast concrete structure without a floor than to try to modify a new septic tank.(This did not end up being the case.) Unable to find another company to help, I decided to go ahead with their suggestion. 90005 90004 I decided my root cellar would be 8 ‘x 12’ on the outside, if I could find a place in the ground to put one that large. So I drew up some plans, including the location of the door and the location of the vent holes, and sent them off to the concrete company. 90005 90004 My next decision was where to put it. It was important to me to have access directly from my basement.The bedrock is very close to my basement walls in most places. In other words, you do not have to dig very far before hitting that ledgy rock. And I needed a hole that was about 6 feet deep! 90005 90004 I hired someone to dig an initial test hole, and assuming we found a place to put the root cellar, to also set up the drainage pipes, and otherwise prepare the site. The photo shows him taking the first scoops of dirt out of the ground. I was so excited! 90005 90004 We were fortunate in that this first spot I chose, which was on the north side of the house, ended up being deep enough.There was only one place where we hit bedrock and we were able to chip that away. 90005 90004 The hole has been dug! It was tricky because my back steps are a few feet to the right of the hole and a retaining wall is just to the left. It took a lot of careful digging to avoid the collapse of that retaining wall. 90005 90004 Some soil did fall out from under the steps, but a new concrete footing was poured under the post for the step and things were set straight. 90005 90004 After the hole was dug, the next step was to set up a drainage system so water would not collect in that area.90005 90004 Part of the perimeter drain for the house (the white pipe parallel to the house) was replaced so there would be places to attach drain pipes for the root cellar. In this photo, you can see the drain pipes attached. 90005 90004 The ground was made level, then «hardware cloth» (a mesh-like screening) was put down to keep the mice and other little critters from burrowing in. 90005 90004 Next, some crushed stone was spread on top of the hardware cloth. The rectangular «tiles» were used as footings to distribute the weight more evenly.90005 90004 The company that fabricated the root cellar wanted us to use larger «tiles» for footings, but there was not enough space for them due to the bedrock being so close. Since one end of the root cellar would be sitting on the footings for the house foundation and one other corner would be sitting on bedrock, we felt that this would be sufficient. 90005 90004 Around here, you have to hire a separate company to cut the opening for the door in the concrete basement wall. (Or do it yourself!) It was a much more complicated process than I had expected, but these guys were real experts.90005 90004 The concrete was taken out in two chunks: first the upper and then the lower part of the doorway. 90005 90004 Water was applied during the process of cutting through the concrete. Fortunately, I have a basement drain near where they were working. The excavator was used to hoist out the two chunks of concrete that were removed to make the doorway. 90005 90004 When the men arrived with the precast root cellar, the first thing they did was measure the dimensions of the hole in the ground.They then shook their heads and said that it was not going to fit. Oh my, that was not good news. 90005 90004 Apparently, unbeknownst to me, they had made it 8 ‘by 13’ by mistake, instead of 8 ‘by 12’ which was specified in the drawings. The bedrock was jutting out into the area where it would need to be placed. 90005 90004 The men knew that the size was wrong when they loaded it onto the truck, but had not called me to let me know. Oops! 90005 90004 Determined as I am, I said I thought we could make it work anyway.So they got out their drills and various other tools and set about carving away at the bedrock. 90005 90004 While they were doing this, I got up on the truck to check out my new root cellar. I discovered that one side had a large crack in it, which had been patched! I’m guessing that it cracked when it was being put on the truck. 90005 90004 I called and spoke with the owner of the company and we agreed that we’d work out an adjustment to the price, which we later did. 90005 90004 When it was being swung around so it could be placed in the hole, I think it began to crack some more, in one of the corners.The fourth side (the side without the tar) was partially open, so this very heavy structure was not stable enough to hold together. 90005 90004 After many attempts, the root cellar has been lowered into place. Whew! 90005 90004 The side that’s close to the house is sitting on the same footings as the house foundation. And that side was also bolted to the wall of the house foundation. 90005 90004 You can see a new crack in the corner in the foreground in the photo. 90005 90004 We had planned to put a type of rubber gasket between the root cellar wall and the house foundation, but due to the trouble in hoisting the cellar into place, this turned out not to be possible.The gasket would have helped keep water from seeping in. 90005 90004 Tar was put along the top edge of the concrete structure before the top was put on, to keep moisture from coming in between that edge and the concrete top. 90005 90004 The top was then hoisted into place. It was getting dark by that time, so the photos did not come out well enough to show that part of the process. 90005 90004 The next step was to cover the root cellar with heavy-duty polyethylene (plastic) to give more protection against water infiltration.Then crushed stone was poured around the outside to improve drainage and the top was covered with soil. 90005 90004 After these photos were taken, an elbow was attached to the bottom of the cold air intake pipe to direct the air toward the middle of the root cellar. Both pipes were covered with a «door» that can be opened or closed as needed, in order to maintain the desired temperature. 90005 90004 I had an insulated metal door installed between the basement and the root cellar. This was especially important in my situation, since my woodstove is in the basement and I wanted to keep the warm basement air from affecting the temperature in the root cellar.90005 90004 Then a laundry sink was added outside the root cellar door, so I’d have a place to wash off the veggies before bringing them upstairs. 90005 90004 This sink has come in very handy! It was an extra expense, but I’m very glad I did it. 90005 90004 Finally, I added the metal shelving which is solidly attached to the walls. This shelving allows for good circulation behind and around the baskets, bins, or other storage containers. 90005 90004 On the left, you can see my thermometer and humidity gauges.There are two of them because I wanted compare the readings to test their accuracy. 90005 90004 I still need to add at least one light and maybe an outlet for plugging in a fan to facilitate the flow of air on cool spring and fall nights. 90005 90002 Building Codes 90003 90004 It’s important to check your local and state building codes to make sure that you’re not in violation. In my state, the root cellar is considered part of the house and thus has to be located a certain distance from the well.Also, make sure you do not need a building permit. 90005 90002 More Information and Articles 90003 90004 Building a Root Cellar: Here’s a great step-by-step article by someone who had one cast in place, like a regular foundation would be. This is an even more elaborate project than mine, but very interesting. 90005 90004 Outdoor Root Cellars: Very helpful information about cold storage of vegetables when you do not have an underground root cellar. Includes descriptions of a trench silo, a «hole-in-the-ground pit», a garbage can cellar, and a root clamp.From Mother Earth News. 90005 90004 Creating a Root Cellar: This article by Eliot Coleman provides details about location, drainage, insulation, and humidity. Includes illustrations. Describes some easy techniques such as using metal garbage cans buried in the ground. 90005 90004 Root Cellaring: Excellent article by Nancy and Mike Bubel about building and using root cellars. 90005 90004 Build a Root Cellar: Another good article from Mother Earth News. This one is about converting a septic tank.90005 .90000 How to Keep a Room Well-Ventilated With the Windows Closed | Home Guides 90001 90002 By Amanda Bell Updated December 19, 2018 90003 90002 Whether you’re simply trying to replace stale air with fresh or you’re completing a project that exposes you to fumes, you can ventilate a room without opening any windows. Although windows tend to provide the easiest ventilation option, a healthy flow of air throughout the room and your home can be achieved in numerous ways. 90003 90006 Focus on Doors 90007 90002 Opening all of the doors in the room that lead to other spaces can significantly improve airflow.Even without fans, open doors allow fresher air in and fumes and stale air out. If you have doors that open to the outside and have screens, keeping these open even for 10 minutes can drastically improve ventilation. Closing doors that lead nowhere — such as closet or pantry doors — can keep air moving out the other open doors rather than becoming trapped in an enclosed space. 90003 90010 Turn on Ceiling and Table Fans 90007 90002 If you have any ceiling fans in the room, keep these turned on at a medium to high setting.Prompting air movement and circulation, ceiling fans rotate the air between the top, sides and bottom of the room and can cause a breeze that can be strong enough to push fumes and stale air out the doorway. Table fans, although not quite as strong, can produce similar results. Anything that improves air circulation in the room aids in ventilation. 90003 90014 Set up Box Fans in Entrances 90007 90002 There’s a reason that professional painters and construction workers keep box fans on hand: Setting up these powerful, relatively cheap devices in doorways can pull air from outside the room in and push stale air or fumes out .While this is not a feasible option to use every day, it can make a huge difference when you’re working on a project that involves fumes, such as painting and staining, or when you’re waxing floors. 90003 90018 Turn on the Air 90007 90002 Your air conditioner can help to keep a room ventilated as well. Air conditioners remove heat from the air and constantly circulate the air in the home. This continuous exchange of air gets rid of stale air and fumes, replacing it with cleaner air. Regularly replacing the filter on your air conditioner can reduce allergens and odors, and keeping the air conditioner set to a relatively high temperature can reduce your cooling costs while still keeping your room ventilated.90003.